Tips tashkalar - تاریخچهٔ نسخه‌ها

Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */

2017-02-18T00:37:42Z

High Form Strategy

→ نسخهٔ قدیمی‌تر		نسخهٔ ‏۱۸ فوریهٔ ۲۰۱۷، ساعت ۰۲:۳۷
خط ۲۴:		خط ۲۴:

	''Be wary of flares.'' A typical beginner's mistake iis to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent's pieces, is a good idea. But '''this approach will usually lose the game,''' because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don't let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.)		''Be wary of flares.'' A typical beginner's mistake iis to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent's pieces, is a good idea. But '''this approach will usually lose the game,''' because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don't let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.)

			''Play your flare!'' If you can play it, the vast majority of the time you should. This is true even if it does nothing helpful--in that case, play it simply to discard it and get a more useful one in return.

	'''4) Tasks'''		'''4) Tasks'''

Nandblock در ‏۳۱ ژانویهٔ ۲۰۱۷، ساعت ۰۳:۲۰

2017-01-31T03:20:46Z

→ نسخهٔ قدیمی‌تر		نسخهٔ ‏۳۱ ژانویهٔ ۲۰۱۷، ساعت ۰۵:۲۰
خط ۴۱:		خط ۴۱:
	Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar's BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):		Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar's BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):

	IMPERIAL		'''IMPERIAL'''
	* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb		* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb
	* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin		* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin
	* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist		* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist

	SYLVAN		'''SYLVAN'''
	* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens		* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens
	* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid		* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid
	* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd		* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd

	HIGHLAND		'''HIGHLAND'''
	* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman		* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman
	* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear		* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear
خط ۵۷:		خط ۵۷:
	* 5: Warlord		* 5: Warlord

	EVERFROST		'''EVERFROST'''
	* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower		* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower
	* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest		* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest
	* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster		* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster

	LEGENDS		'''LEGENDS'''
	* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult		* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult

Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */

2017-01-23T06:37:15Z

High Form Strategy

→ نسخهٔ قدیمی‌تر		نسخهٔ ‏۲۳ ژانویهٔ ۲۰۱۷، ساعت ۰۸:۳۷
خط ۳۵:		خط ۳۵:
	'''6) Patience'''		'''6) Patience'''

	Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game "bounce": it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what's in your deck and your opponent's and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, ~~try to~~ summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.		Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game "bounce": it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what's in your deck and your opponent's and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.

	== Cards ==		== Cards ==

Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */

2017-01-23T06:35:58Z

High Form Strategy

@@ خط ۳۱: / خط ۳۱: @@
 '''5) Opening Moves'''
-In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces be near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent's pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it's full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.
+In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent's pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it's full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.
 '''6) Patience'''
 Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game "bounce": it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what's in your deck and your opponent's and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, try to summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.

Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */

2016-12-24T05:43:56Z

High Form Strategy

→ نسخهٔ قدیمی‌تر		نسخهٔ ‏۲۴ دسامبر ۲۰۱۶، ساعت ۰۷:۴۳
خط ۱:		خط ۱:
	== High Form Strategy ==		== High Form Strategy ==

	'''1) ~~Hand~~ Management'''		'''1) Board Management'''

	''~~Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale~~.'' ~~Don't grow too attached to~~ a ~~card unless~~ you~~'re absolutely sure you need~~ to ~~use~~ it ~~soon~~ to ~~accomplish~~ a ~~task~~. If ~~it's not helping~~ you~~, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can~~'~~t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck,~~ the ~~more precise~~ your ~~endgame play will be~~, ~~as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of~~ cards~~. -- By discarding you can also get rid~~ of ~~a flare that is hard~~ to ~~trigger, or Legends that are not useful~~.		''Keep your piece-count down.'' If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you're ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.

	''~~Anticipate key cards in~~ your ~~deck~~.'' ~~Don't just set up existing patterns in~~ your ~~hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card~~ is ~~in your deck~~, ~~try to keep a few~~ pieces ~~on the board that~~ will ~~help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try~~ to ~~maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow~~-~~shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you're just starting out~~, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Everfrost Sentinel; Blood Shaman and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).		''Keep your pieces together.'' If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.

	''~~Track the cards~~.'' If you are playing ~~a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards~~ and ~~your opponent~~'s.		''Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.'' Even if there's no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven't yet played Blood Shaman.)

	''~~Learn the decks and Legendary Beings~~.'' ~~To reiterate: as a beginner, ''do not worry about memorizing every single card!'' But eventually~~ you ~~will need to be~~ able to ~~recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what's coming up in your own deck that might be useful~~.		''Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.'' Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.

	'''2) ~~Flares~~'''		'''2) Hand Management'''

	''~~Be wary of flares~~.'' ~~A typical beginner~~'~~s mistake in Tash-Kalar is~~ to ~~assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent~~'~~s pieces, is~~ a ~~good idea~~. ~~But~~ ''~~'this approach will usually lose the game~~,~~''' because~~ it ~~gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn~~. ~~Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are~~ the ~~deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don't let~~ your ~~opponent get flares easily. If~~ you ~~are ahead in piece-count~~, ~~try~~ to ~~stay ahead~~ by ~~a maximum~~ of ~~2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total~~--~~this guarantees~~ that ~~only one flare (the 2/5 one)~~ is ~~playable. If you must exceed~~ that ~~limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The top number of flares ranges from 2 to 5; the bottom from 4 to 6~~.)		''Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.'' Don't grow too attached to a card unless you're absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it's not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can't trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful.

	'''~~3) Board Management~~'''		''Anticipate key cards in your deck.'' Don't just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you're just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Everfrost Sentinel; Blood Shaman and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).

	''~~Keep your piece-count down~~.'' If ~~a piece of your own is not helping your position and~~ you ~~have~~ a ~~chance to destroy it~~, ~~do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer~~ to ~~a flare. If you're ahead in the game and~~ your ~~piece count is high, consider discarding~~ cards ~~or summoning a being on top of~~ your ~~own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board~~.		''Track the cards.'' If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent's.

	''~~Keep your pieces together~~.'' ~~If your position is dispersed~~, ~~those pieces~~ will ~~add~~ to your ~~piece-count~~, ~~making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks~~.		''Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.'' To reiterate: as a beginner, ''do not worry about memorizing every single card!'' But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what's coming up in your own deck that might be useful.

	''~~Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.~~'' ~~Even if there~~'~~s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven~~'~~t yet played Blood Shaman.)~~		'''3) Flares'''

	''~~Do not let~~ your opponent ~~set up camp far away from you~~.'' ~~Make sure~~ you are ~~always able~~ to ~~destroy~~ a ~~piece or two~~ of ~~theirs~~.		''Be wary of flares.'' A typical beginner's mistake iis to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent's pieces, is a good idea. But '''this approach will usually lose the game,''' because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don't let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.)

	'''4) Tasks'''		'''4) Tasks'''

Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */

2016-12-23T08:05:10Z

High Form Strategy

→ نسخهٔ قدیمی‌تر		نسخهٔ ‏۲۳ دسامبر ۲۰۱۶، ساعت ۱۰:۰۵
خط ۴:		خط ۴:

	''Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.'' Don't grow too attached to a card unless you're absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it's not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can't trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful.		''Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.'' Don't grow too attached to a card unless you're absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it's not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can't trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful.

			''Anticipate key cards in your deck.'' Don't just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you're just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Everfrost Sentinel; Blood Shaman and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).

			''Track the cards.'' If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent's.

			''Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.'' To reiterate: as a beginner, ''do not worry about memorizing every single card!'' But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what's coming up in your own deck that might be useful.

	'''2) Flares'''		'''2) Flares'''

	''Be wary of flares.'' A typical beginner's mistake in Tash-Kalar is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying your opponent's pieces ~~as thoroughly as possible~~, is a good idea. ~~In fact,~~ this approach will usually lose the game, because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don't let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The top number of flares ranges from 2 to 5; the bottom from 4 to 6.)		''Be wary of flares.'' A typical beginner's mistake in Tash-Kalar is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent's pieces, is a good idea. But '''this approach will usually lose the game,''' because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don't let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The top number of flares ranges from 2 to 5; the bottom from 4 to 6.)

	'''3) Board Management'''		'''3) Board Management'''
خط ۳۰:		خط ۳۶:

	Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game "bounce": it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what's in your deck and your opponent's and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, try to summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.		Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game "bounce": it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what's in your deck and your opponent's and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, try to summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.

	~~'''7) Deeper Play: Getting to Know the Decks'''~~

	''Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.'' As a beginner, do not worry about memorizing every single card! But to play Tash-Kalar more than casually, you need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what's coming up in your own deck that might be useful. Be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones to watch out for, like the dreaded Hypnotist, Bomb, Everfrost Sentinel, Blood Shaman, Ritual Master, Forest Ancient, Leviathan and Time Elemental.

	~~''Track the cards.'' If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent's.~~

	''Anticipate cards in your deck.'' Don't just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.)

Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */

2016-12-23T07:48:25Z

High Form Strategy

→ نسخهٔ قدیمی‌تر		نسخهٔ ‏۲۳ دسامبر ۲۰۱۶، ساعت ۰۹:۴۸
خط ۳:		خط ۳:
	'''1) Hand Management'''		'''1) Hand Management'''

	''Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.'' To play Tash-Kalar well you need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what's coming up in your own deck that might be useful.		''Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.'' Don't grow too attached to a card unless you're absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it's not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can't trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful.

	~~''Track the cards.'' If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent's.~~

	''Anticipate cards in your deck.'' Don't just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.)

	''Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.'' Don't grow too attached to a card unless you're absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it's not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it ~~or discarding~~, even if you can't trigger its effects. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful.

	'''2) Flares'''		'''2) Flares'''

	''Be wary of flares.'' Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don't let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 ~~flare in the deck~~) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The top number of flares ranges from 2 to 5; the bottom from 4 to 6.)		''Be wary of flares.'' A typical beginner's mistake in Tash-Kalar is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying your opponent's pieces as thoroughly as possible, is a good idea. In fact, this approach will usually lose the game, because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don't let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The top number of flares ranges from 2 to 5; the bottom from 4 to 6.)

	'''3) Board Management'''		'''3) Board Management'''
خط ۳۶:		خط ۳۰:

	Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game "bounce": it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what's in your deck and your opponent's and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, try to summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.		Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game "bounce": it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what's in your deck and your opponent's and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, try to summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.

			'''7) Deeper Play: Getting to Know the Decks'''

			''Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.'' As a beginner, do not worry about memorizing every single card! But to play Tash-Kalar more than casually, you need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what's coming up in your own deck that might be useful. Be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones to watch out for, like the dreaded Hypnotist, Bomb, Everfrost Sentinel, Blood Shaman, Ritual Master, Forest Ancient, Leviathan and Time Elemental.

			''Track the cards.'' If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent's.

			''Anticipate cards in your deck.'' Don't just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.)

Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */

2016-12-21T20:42:31Z

High Form Strategy

→ نسخهٔ قدیمی‌تر		نسخهٔ ‏۲۱ دسامبر ۲۰۱۶، ساعت ۲۲:۴۲
خط ۳۵:		خط ۳۵:
	'''6) Patience'''		'''6) Patience'''

	Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game "bounce": it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, try to summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.		Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game "bounce": it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what's in your deck and your opponent's and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, try to summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.

Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */

2016-12-16T17:50:45Z

High Form Strategy

→ نسخهٔ قدیمی‌تر		نسخهٔ ‏۱۶ دسامبر ۲۰۱۶، ساعت ۱۹:۵۰
خط ۹:		خط ۹:
	''Anticipate cards in your deck.'' Don't just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.)		''Anticipate cards in your deck.'' Don't just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.)

	''Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.'' Don't grow too attached to a card unless you're absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it's not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it or discarding, even if you can't trigger its effects. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards.		''Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.'' Don't grow too attached to a card unless you're absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it's not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it or discarding, even if you can't trigger its effects. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful.

	'''2) Flares'''		'''2) Flares'''
خط ۳۲:		خط ۳۲:

	In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces be near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent's pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it's full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.		In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces be near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent's pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it's full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.

			'''6) Patience'''

			Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game "bounce": it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, try to summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.

Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */

2016-12-12T21:26:04Z

High Form Strategy

→ نسخهٔ قدیمی‌تر		نسخهٔ ‏۱۲ دسامبر ۲۰۱۶، ساعت ۲۳:۲۶
خط ۱:		خط ۱:
	== High Form Strategy ==		== High Form Strategy ==

	'''~~Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.~~''' ~~To play Tash-Kalar well you need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what's coming up in your own deck that might be useful.~~		'''1) Hand Management'''

	''~~'Track~~ the ~~cards~~.''~~' If~~ you ~~are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA~~ to ~~keep track of both~~ your ~~cards~~ and ~~your opponent~~'s.		''Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.'' To play Tash-Kalar well you need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what's coming up in your own deck that might be useful.

	''~~'Anticipate~~ cards ~~in your deck~~.''~~' Don't just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if~~ you ~~know~~ a ~~useful card is in your deck~~, ~~try~~ to keep ~~a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners~~ of ~~a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord~~.)		''Track the cards.'' If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent's.

	''~~'Play or discard~~ cards ~~rather than letting them go stale~~.''' Don't ~~grow~~ too ~~attached~~ to a card ~~unless~~ you~~'re absolutely sure~~ you ~~need~~ to ~~use it soon to accomplish~~ a ~~task. If it's not helping you~~, ~~get rid of it by summoning it~~ or ~~discarding, even if you can't trigger its effects~~.		''Anticipate cards in your deck.'' Don't just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.)

	''~~'Be wary of flares~~.''' ~~Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming~~ a ~~task or totally reshaping the board--so don~~'~~t let your opponent get flares easily. If~~ you ~~are ahead in piece-count, try~~ to ~~stay ahead by~~ a ~~maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 flare in the deck) is playable~~. If you ~~must exceed that limit~~, ~~avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once~~. (The ~~top number of flares ranges from 2~~ to 5; the ~~bottom from 4 to 6~~.)		''Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.'' Don't grow too attached to a card unless you're absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it's not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it or discarding, even if you can't trigger its effects. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards.

	'''~~Keep your piece count down.~~''' If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you're ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.		'''2) Flares'''

	''~~'Keep your pieces together~~.''' If ~~your position is dispersed they will add to your~~ piece-count ~~while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks~~.		''Be wary of flares.'' Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don't let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 flare in the deck) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The top number of flares ranges from 2 to 5; the bottom from 4 to 6.)

	'''~~Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not~~ 3~~-pointers and Legends.~~''' In particular, avoid focusing on Side Chain and Corner Chain, which are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a major priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim very easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.		'''3) Board Management'''

	'''Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.''' Even if there's no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven't yet played Blood Shaman.)		''Keep your piece-count down.'' If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you're ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.

			''Keep your pieces together.'' If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.

			''Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.'' Even if there's no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven't yet played Blood Shaman.)

			''Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.'' Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.

			'''4) Tasks'''

			''Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.'' In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a major priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim very easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.

			'''5) Opening Moves'''

			In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces be near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent's pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it's full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.